Muong Lay
Formerly known as Lai Chau, this small town is nestled in a pretty valley carved from spectacular mountains by the Da River, and makes a good lunch or overnight stop for people travelling between Dien Bien Phu and Sapa.

Beneath Muong Lay’s beauty lies a difficult existence for locals. Despite a marked increase in tourist numbers, for most of the people it’s a hard living. Far from busy trade routes, normal commerce is limited and the town has only been really successful in harvesting cash crops such opium and timber. Needless to say, opium harvesting does not find favour with the central government, which has been trying to discourage the Montagnards from producing poppies.

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Getting there & away
Most travellers arrive from Dien Bien Phu (three hours, 103km), although there’s also the rocky road option of Hwy 6 from Tuan Giao (four hours, 96km). The road from Lai Chau to Sapa (six hours, 155km) is one of the most beautiful drives in Vietnam, particularly the final climb up over the Tram Ton Pass.

Public buses make the run to/from Hanoi, as well Dien Bien Phu (35, 000d, three hours) and Sapa (53, 000d).

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