Huay Xai

This bustling river port on the Mekong is in a slow and steady state of flux, encouraged by tourist dollars and Thai, Lao and Chinese trade. The crux of town only spans a few hundred metres and the main street is a strip of guesthouses, shops and tour operators. Once you head a kilometre or so in either direction, however, you’ll find yourself in sleepy bâan populated by friendly residents. The rich green hills of Bokeo rise in the background and the mighty Mekong, intrinsic to the town’s character, forms a natural border with Thailand. Most visitors head here solely for the opportunity to take a slow boat journey on the Mekong, or to head north, but Huay Xai has managed to remain relaxed and to avoid the hassle common to pit stops and border towns. This makes for some pleasant ambling. It’s also a good base for trips into Bokeo Province itself.

For centuries Huay Xai was a disembarkation point for Yunnanese caravans led by the Hui (Chinese Muslims) on their way to Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai in ancient Siam; today Chinese barges from Yunnan are able to navigate this far, so there is still a brisk trade in Chinese goods.

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Getting there & away

Land
Bus & sǎwngthǎew
The road northeast to Luang Nam Tha can be difficult because of its poor surface, but it is slowly being upgraded.

Buses and large sǎwngthǎew ply the road northeast to Vieng Phoukha (US$4.50, five hours, three to four daily), Luang Nam Tha (US$6.50, eight hours, three daily) and Udomxai (US$10, 11 hours, one daily).

There are also daily buses to Luang Prabang (US$13, eight hours) and Vientiane (US$17, 18 hours).

These time estimates apply only during dry months; during the rainy season the road can be very slow, occasionally even impassable for a day or two. A bandanna is handy for dust protection in the dry season. When the upgrading project is done, the road will be traversable year-round and buses should be able to make the Huay Xai–Nam Tha trip in four to six hours.

The bus terminal is about 2.5km south of town, a tuk-tuk there costs US$1.

Boat
Huay Xai is a major jumping-off point for visitors planning to travel downriver to Luang Prabang by boat. It’s also possible to travel upriver to Xieng Kok, where a road leads to Muang Sing.

Slow boats
Long-distance ferries – the héua sáa (slow boat) – travel down the Mekong from Huay Xai to Pak Beng (US$9.50, six to eight hours) and Luang Prabang (US$20, two days). Some travellers rave about this journey, others are disappointed. The river is indeed very beautiful, but your experience will depend largely on the condition of the boat and number of fellow passengers. The boats should hold around 70 people, but many captains pack in more than 100, and spending two days in an engine room like cattle isn’t much to write home about. It’s worth noting, however, that there is strength in numbers, and if passengers refuse, en masse, to travel in an overcrowded boat then captains have been known to relent and agree to two boats.

The journey generally requires an overnight stay in Pak Beng, unless you charter your own boat (US$500). If you can pull a crowd together this latter option is a good one as you’ll have much more room. Departure times for slow boats depend largely on passenger demand, but they usually leave between 8am and 11am each morning. Be sure to carry a cushion if you have a sensitive bum, as the wooden seats can be uncomfortable and the boats are very crowded during the high season.

Several different kinds of slow boats make the journey from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, and it’s a good idea to have a look at the boat in advance. The photos of beautifully maintained vessels you’ll be shown at the tour agencies in town don’t bear any resemblance to the boats you’ll end up on. Other boats have better seating, and so on. The situation is constantly changing, but BAP Guest House is a good source of info on how to select the better boats. Tour agencies and most guesthouses sell tickets but you can purchase them for a couple of bucks less from the ticket office (212012) at the slow boat landing, which is located north of the town centre.

You can also book a slow boat in advance, in Chiang Khong, before crossing to Huay Xai, for a surcharge of US$2.50. In the high season this is worth considering, as boats fill very fast.

You can also cruise to Pak Beng and Luang Prabang on the large, comfortably outfitted Luang Say, a 34m, 36-seat, steel-hulled boat operated by Asian Oasis (www.asian-oasis.com; per person May-Sep/Oct-Apr US$185/270) three days weekly in each direction (two weekly May to September). The two-day package includes meals, guides and a night at Luang Say Lodge in Pak Beng. The office is near immigration. Asian Oasis also has an office in Luang Prabang.

Phoudoi Travel Co (Th Saykhong) sells tickets for a comfortable, 34m boat with chairs, tables and food and drink on board. Tickets are US$60 and the boat takes one day to reach Luang Prabang. Departures are every Monday and Friday. You can also book this from Thailand; see www.chiangsaenriverhill.com for details.

Speedboats
Six-passenger héua wái (speedboats) to Pak Beng (US$14, three hours) and Luang Prabang (US$28, six hours) leave from a landing about 2km south of the town centre. You can hire a whole boat for four to six times the individual fare.

BAP Guest House can arrange speedboats to Xieng Kok for US$150 for up to four passengers. From Xieng Kok it’s possible to travel by road to Muang Sing in Luang Nam Tha.

Bear in mind that although the speedboat is much quicker, it’s a noisy, cramped and risky ride.

Air
Huay Xai’s airport of US construction lies a few kilometres south of town. Lao Airlines (211026, 211494) flies to/from Vientiane (one way/return US$84/160, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday).

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Place To Restaurant

Riverside Houay Restaurant

The only thing broader than the Mekong view at this restaurant is the menu. A huge array of Thai and Lao is on offer with some good seafood dishes including fried prawn cakes. The tom yams and curries come in all manner of meats, or you can just tuck into an omelette. It has a particularly ambient setting, although the cheesy Thai pop music detracts a little from it.

Hot pork

On an atmospheric timber deck surrounded by foliage, this restaurant serves great Lao dishes like peppery hot pork, baked fish or chicken with chilli and lime.

Muang Neur

There's plenty of fragrant Lao cuisine to be had at this humble little restaurant, like whole crisp fried fish stuffed with ginger and garlic, spicy seafood soup with lemongrass, and delicious fǒe . It also advertises itself as the Gecko Bar for those in need of lào-láo .

Latsuly Restaurant

Right next to the slow boat landing, this spot overlooking the Mekong serves an assortment of fried noodle and rice dishes, buffalo steaks, and a good basil pork. They can also whip up sandwiches for you to take on the boats.

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