Chi Phat
Chi Phat’s pioneering community-based ecotourism project, though at press time still a work in progress, gives hardy travellers a unique opportunity to explore the Cardamom ecosystem while contributing in a small way to its protection.

Chi Phat, though hardly the most beautiful village in Cambodia, is an excellent base for a variety of outdoor activities. Visitors can swim in the river, cycle (or take a moto) to several sets of rapids, hike in the forest (perhaps with a former poacher as a guide; US$6 to US$10 per day) and play volleyball with the locals. Monkeys, hornbills and other rainforest creatures can often be seen along the banks of Stung Proat, an unlogged tributary of the Preak Piphot River accessible by boat. According to a village elder, the last time a tiger was seen in these parts was 1975.

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Getting there & away
Chi Phat is on the Preak Piphot River 21km upriver from Andoung Tuek. The best way to get there from Andoung Tuek is to charter a fast motorboat (016 348860, 016 565054; for 3/6 people US$25/40) or a slower wooden long-tail motorboat (016 399134; US$12). The fast boat takes 40 minutes and the slow 1½ hours. The ride is especially enchanting just after dawn, when the water is often smooth as glass. Much cheaper cargo boats (5000r, two hours) make daily merchandise runs, leaving Chi Phat at 8am or 8.30am and Andoung Tuek sometime between noon and 2pm.

By moto the trip from Andoung Tuek is a hard – and, in the wet season, muddy – slog along a forest track (30, 000r, 1½ hours).

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Restaurants Place

Covered market
In the small covered market you can get a bowl of noodles.

Eateries
The riverfront has two little eateries, one of which doubles as a pool hall (yes, right here in Preak Piphot River city!).