Central Cardamoms Protected Forest
The Central Cardamoms Protected Forest (CCPF; 4013 sq km) encompasses three of Southeast Asia’s most threatened ecosystems: lowland evergreen forests, riparian forests and wetlands.

The rangers and military policemen who protect this vast area from illegal hunting and logging, with the help of Conservation International, are based in seven strategically sited ranger stations, including one in Thma Bang, where they run a guesthouse (to ­coordinate a visit 012 256777; ccp.kimsan@everyday.com.kh; per person US$8). Opened in 2008, its four double rooms have outside bathrooms and electricity from 6pm to 9pm (there are plans to install solar panels). Meals are US$2. Bring warm clothes as temperatures can drop as low as 10°C. Thma Bang lacks mobile phone coverage but the station has radio contact with the Veal II ranger checkpoint (092 269440).

Thma Bang District has the lowest population density (1.35 people per sq km) and the highest levels of poverty in Koh Kong Province. Mostly covered with dense rainforest, it is perfect for bird-watching or hiking – perhaps to a waterfall – with a local guide (rangers can help you find one). The nearby Areng River Valley, some of whose inhabitants belong to the Khmer Daeum minority community, is home to the dragonfish (Asian arowana), almost extinct in the wild, and the world’s most important population of critically endangered Siamese crocodiles, toothy critters that don’t eat people.

The truly intrepid can hire guides for the trek from Thma Bang north to Kravanh , which takes at least a week, or from Chamnar (linked to Thma Bang by road) over the mountains to Kravanh, a five-day affair. These treks are possible only in the dry season.

An easier option is the three-day hike from Chumnoab, east of Thma Bang, eastwards to Roleak Kang Cheung, linked to Kompong Speu by road. Between the two is Knong Krapeur (1000m), set amid high-elevation grassland and pines. Inhabited five centuries ago, the area is known for its giant ceramic funeral jars, still filled with human bones.

It may also be possible to accompany enforcement rangers on an overnight or three-day patrol – contact the Thma Bang guesthouse for details

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Getting there & away
Few roads of any sort penetrate the Cardamom Mountains, ideal if you’re trying to protect the natural habitat – roads, even rudimentary ones, tend to attract loggers, poachers and encroachers – but a bit of a problem if you’d like to visit.

The southern reaches of the CCPF are easiest to reach from the south. It takes about two hours to drive from Krong Koh Kong to Thma Bang (wet-season travel may be difficult or impossible). Turn off NH48 about 10km east of the Tatai River bridge; from the Veal II (Veal Pii) ranger checkpoint, where a user fee may be collected, it’s a further 50 minutes.

Thma Bang is linked to Chi Phat by a difficult trail that can be handled by motorbike, but just barely.

The CCPF’s northern sections can be accessed, to the degree that they’re accessible at all, from Pursat.

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Place To Visit

Areng River Valley
The nearby Areng River Valley, some of whose inhabitants belong to the Khmer Daeum minority community, is home to the dragonfish (Asian arowana), almost extinct in the wild, and the world's most important population of critically endangered Siamese crocodiles, toothy critters that don't eat people.

Rovieng Ranger Station
Another impressive collection of seatless cars and ox carts loaded with illegal wood fills the yard at Rovieng, but the most valuable contraband here is aromatic moras preuv oil, extracted from the roots of the endangered Disoxylon loureiri tree and kept in scores of plastic jerry cans. It has a delightful, sandalwood-like scent and keeps away both mossies and rats but interests smugglers because it can be used to make the drug ecstasy.