Banteay Chhmar & Banteay Top
The temple complex of Banteay Chhmar (admission US$5) was constructed by Cambodia’s most prolific builder, Jayavarman VII (r 1181–1219), on the site of a 9th-century temple. There is debate over its origins, with some scholars suggesting it was built in tribute to Jayavarman VII’s son Indravarman and the Cambodian generals responsible for defeating the Chams, while others propose it was intended as a funerary temple for the king’s grandmother.

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Getting there & away
After having its bridges washed out by floods, NH69 – which links Banteay Chhmar with Sisophon (61km to the south; two hours) and Samraong (to the northeast; 1½ hours) – is getting a serious upgrade.

From Sisophon, most northbound pickups only go as far as Thmor Puok, where you can hire a moto to the temple (US$5 return). Or you can take a moto all the way from Sisophon (about US$10 return). Hotels in Sisophon may be able to rent you a motor­bike. There’s no public transport from Banteay Chhmar to Samraong.

By car, it’s possible to get out here on a very long day trip from Siem Reap.

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Place To Visit

Banteay Chhmar
Originally enclosed by a 9km-long wall, the temple housed one of the largest and most impressive Buddhist monasteries of the Angkorian period. Today, it is one of the few temples to feature the enigmatic, Bayon-style visages of Avalokiteshvara, with their mysterious - and world famous - smiles.

Banteay Chhmar Protected Landscape
At the headquarters of the Banteay Chhmar Protected Landscape, 2km towards Sisophon from town, it may be possible to hire a guide (non-English speaking) for a nature walk.

Banteay Top
Constructed around the same time as Banteay Chhmar, it may be a tribute to the army of Jayavarman VII, which confirmed Khmer dominance over the region by conclusively defeating the Chams. One of the damaged towers looks decidedly precarious, like a bony finger pointing skyward. The turn-off from NH69, marked by a stone plinth with gold inscription, is 9km south of Banteay Chhmar.