Nha Trang Overview
Nha Trang has a split personality. One takes the form of a smaller Danang – a bustling Viet­namese city humming with commerce but blessed with access to a beautiful beach. The other is a Western resort town encompassing several blocks of hotels, tourist shops, bars and international restaurants. Entering this sheltered enclave you could be anywhere in the world, if it weren’t for the constant hassling from xe om drivers, many of whom seem to moonlight as pimps and dealers.

The city is indisputably beautiful, bordered by mountains, with the beach tracing an impressive long swoop along a bay dotted with islands. Topiary and modern sculpture dot the immaculately manicured foreshore. The only blight on the horizon is the Hollywood-style sign for the Vinpearl complex – an ugly scar dominating nearby Hon Tre Island.

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How to get to Nha Trang

Land
Bus
Lien Tinh bus station (Ben Xe Lien Tinh; 822 192; Ð 23 Thang 10) is Nha Trang’s main intercity bus terminal, 500m west of the train station. Seven daily buses head north to Quy Nhon (65, 000d, 5½ hours), with at least two continuing to Danang (120, 000d). Regular buses head south to Phan Rang (24, 000d, 2½ hours), with a dozen continuing on to HCMC (110, 000d, 11 hours) and a similar amount heading into the highlands to Dalat (60, 000d, seven hours).

Nha Trang is a major stopping point on all of the tourist open-bus tours. These are the best option for accessing Mui Ne, which is not served by local buses. Sinh Café runs a comfortable coach at 7.30am, reaching Ca Na before 11am and Mui Ne just after midday. It stops here for lunch before continuing on to HCMC (arriving 5.30pm). It also runs services to Dalat (six hours) and Hoi An (11 hours).

Car & motorbike
Road distances from Nha Trang are: 235km to Quy Nhon, 523km to Danang, 104km to Phan Rang, 250km to Mui Ne, 448km to HCMC, 205km to Dalat and 205km to Buon Ma Thuot.

Train
The Nha Trang train station (822 113; Ð Thai Nguyen; ticket office 7-11.30am, 1.30-5pm & 6-10pm) is down the hill west of the cathedral. Destinations include Danang (203, 000d, 8½ to 12½ hours, seven daily), Tuy Hoa (44, 000d, 2½ hours, five daily), Thap Cham (35, 000d, 1½ to 2½ hours, eight daily) and HCMC (160, 000d, seven to 12½ hours, nine daily).

Air
Vietnam Airlines (526 768; 91 Ð Nguyen Thien Thuat) connects Nha Trang with HCMC three times a day, and Hanoi and Danang daily.

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Sights to visit in Nha Trang

Yersin Museum in Nha Trang | Budda | Hon Chong | Hon Do | Khanh Hoa Museum | Long son Pagoda | Long Thanh Gallery | National Oceanographic Museum | Nha Trang Cathedral | Po Nagar in Nha Trang | Thap Ba Hot Spring Center

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Restaurants in Nha Trang

Au Lac
Serving excellent vegetarian food of the I-can't-believe-it's-not-meat variety is Au Lac

Bo De
Serving excellent vegetarian food of the I-can't-believe-it's-not-meat variety is Bo De.

Bombay
This humble Indian restaurant with plastic chairs has plenty of tasty vegetarian and tandoori options.

Café des Amis
A popular cheapie focussing on seafood and vegetarian fare, the walls are covered with interesting works by Vietnamese painters

El Coyote
This Coyote does authentic Tex-Mex food including delicious fajitas served on a sizzling plate. The owner has perhaps the most curious ethnic roots in town: he's a mixture of French, Vietnamese, Lao and Cheyenne Indian

Lac Canh Restaurant
A Nha Trang institution, Lac Canh is one of the busiest local eateries in town. Here beef, squid, giant prawns, lobsters and the like are grilled at your table.

Le Petit Bistro
The best of the French restaurants, Le Petit Bistro has a fantastic wine selection, as well as sourcing quality cheese and charcuterie . A testimony to the great food and wine is the number of French ex-pats who gravitate around this atmospheric little place.

Louisiane Brewhouse
Best known for its microbrewery and decadent beachside pool, Louisiane also serves wonderful food and an oddball selection of Moldovan wine. The menu features a mixture of Thai and European favourites, as well as excellent Vietnamese dishes - try the traditional fish salad served with rice paper and herbs. The cakes and pastries are superb.

Mai Anh
Describing their menu as 'French grand cuisine' Mai Anh is the place to go for fillet steak served in a rich cognac or cream-based sauce. For ₫200,000 you can indulge in a nine-course set menu 'to be shared with darling from a single plate', including a bottle of red wine

Pho Cali
You can watch the food being cooked at this clean, modern eatery. The meals are absolutely delicious, and the set menu - comprising soup, rice and a hot pot - is outrageously good value.

Sailing Club
One of the most popular hangouts in Nha Trang, the Sailing Club has three distinct restaurants. The wide terrace on the beach serves excellent Vietnamese cuisine. It's also good for people-watching during the day and ocean breezes at night. On the street side, the Indian and Italian restaurants have a garden setting, the latter serving divine desserts.

Same Same But Different Café
A good travellers' café, this place serves Vietnamese and Western food (including vegie dishes and tasty muesli for breakfast) at reasonable

Selene
Run by a French-Canadian, this cute little eatery is adorned with colourful local art and serves a mixture of French and Italian cuisine. The pasta is particularly good

Thanh Thanh Cafe
Another travellers' café, serving wood-fired pizza, Vietnamese dishes and other standard backpacker fare, Thanh Thanh has a pretty terracotta patio surrounded by plants. They also do deliveries

Turkish Cuisine Kebab Restaurant
If you're craving a kebab, this is quite possibly the only Turkish restaurant in Vietnam. They also serve pizza and pasta. Hookah pipes add to the atmosphere.